Champagne in the kitchen

A friend, with just a mild interest in wine, visited recently. I happened to be in the kitchen, preparing a soup. When my friend witnessed me adding a cup of wine to the broth, she let out a cry of surprise. Her curiosity rendered her speechless, momentarily. It also initiated this blog.

Beware; there is much more to cooking with wine than splashing an unspecified amount into a dish at any time. However, to those who take that approach I say, "well done." It is at least a start, and better than no wine at all.

There are many wines suitable for cooking. It depends upon one's goal. Vermouth; a compound wine, complements dishes with olives or fruits. Still white wine is more versatile, while still red serves meat sauces and stews best. Champagne is the most versatile of all wines, and particularly suitable to marinades. Cooking with any wine, however, will mean the difference between an ordinary dish and one with vim and vigour.

The ability of wine to balance the sweetness, tartness and saltiness of food when used at the table affords it the same compatibility when used in cooking. A cook with an open mind and a sense of humour will do best. There are, though, some basic rules to follow.

The ultimate goal is balance; striking that complementary bridge between the two that enhances each. Strong food flavours require strong wines. Conversely, lighter flavoured and textured wines require the same food qualities.

Be adventurous. Experiment with herbs and spices with different varietal wines. Those wines will readily tell you how suitable that herb or spice is. Trial and error is the best teacher.

Here, then is a dish to get you started. It is relatively simple to prepare.

POACHED SALMON:

6 salmon fillets

1/2 teaspoon Hungarian paprika

pinch of nutmeg

1/2 pint cream

3 tablespoons butter

salt and white pepper

4 shallots

12mushrooms

1 carrot

1/2 bottle of brut champagne

Lay the salmon in a baking pan with a julienne garnish of of the shallots, carrot and mushroom stalks. Add the crumbled flesh of six of the mushroom caps, the seasoning and the champagne. Marinate for two hours, turning once.

To cook, douse the remaining mushroom caps in the marinade, then place on each fillet. Poach in a 375degree oven for 15 minutes. Remove the salmon and keep warm. Add the numeg and paprika to the pan and reduce the liquor by 1/3. Beat in the butter and add cream. Reduce further to a desirable consistency. Add seasoning if necessary, and serve.

Accompany with a rose' champagne, or a pinot noir of the dryer style.

ENJOY !